“I wanted somewhere to get back to my food, whilst I have all these concepts, in my heart I’m still a chef. It’s my own private dining room and I’m never happier than when I am in that kitchen” says David Laris, who cooks modern European dishes with a fusion twist at his new restaurant 12 four or five times a week.

David Laris – who sharpened his knives as executive chef of Sir Terence Conran’s London restaurant Mezzo – has revolutionised the Shanghai fine dining scene since arriving in 2003.

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