At 4,000m above sea level, the sky takes on an otherworldly blue hue. Perched on the old fortress in the town of Tashkurgan, we could see the barren mountains give way to a veritable oasis.

Tashkurgan, sited on a plateau, is the last major town on the Karakoram highway before the Pakistani border. It is where the Tajik minority eke out an existence.

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